Downunder Trip

Australia, Dec. 16 - 26



 

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December 18, 12:05 PM – Brisbane, Australia

We’re writing from the Qantas VIP-Lounge in the Domestic Terminal at Brisbane Airport. The flight over went relatively well. The time slipped by along with the miles. Marieke awoke after a 7-hour nap, to discover that we were past half way there. David slept fitfully, finding no purchase on a position for sleeping. However, several little naps added up and all together we’re feeling surprisingly rested.

The service on the plane was great, the people are very friendly, adding to the mythos that most Aussies have been injected with the “friendly-drug”.

However, our feelings of goodwill gave way to frustration as we discovered that our connecting flight no longer existed in the books of Qantas Airlines. We discovered this after we went through customs, to then be told that we didn’t have to go through customs. We were sent upstairs to the transfer desk where we were informed that our flight had been canceled and we’d been put on a flight, which had left 45 minutes before we even had arrived. A flight to Cairns was boarding but we were told that we could not get on it, as we had to go back downstairs to go through customs, again, but this time all the way through. We asked what the next flight would be and the answer was 6 hours later, around 3:30 PM, the time that we should have landed in Cairns…

So, what to do with the time? It was suggested at the information desk that we go into Brisbane, but the concern was that we get back in time and we didn’t want to miss the only remaining flight today going out to Cairns. But with nothing else to do, we dutifully trudged to the train station where the ticket guy cheerfully informed us that a return ticket would cost us AU$22 pp. and our money would be better spend going to a nearby mall by cab. So, we lumbered over to the taxi queue where a “not so cheerful” Eastern European cab driver told us that we’d never get a taxi back and besides, there were better restaurants in the airport. So, we schlepped back into the airport.

Marieke now had a new mission: to get some kind of reimbursement for Qantas having dropped to ball on our connecting flight leaving us stranded at Brisbane airport, with no opportunity to go snorkeling in Cairns. We went up to the customer service desk where we were helped by a very officious, if not slightly nervous man whose desire to be of help was only exceeded by his compulsive need for procedure. He told us after a good deal of procedural investigation on his part that indeed Qantas had messed up and that there was nothing he could do. He asked, “What would you like me to do?” Well, something would be better than nothing. Is there any chance for an upgrade on one of our other flights, or even a lunch voucher for the 5 remaining hours we had sitting in the airport. It seems that times are tough for Qantas as he had to beg for us to gain entrée into the VIP Lounge, but here we are being very important people. And we must say, as we sip our tea and cappuccino’s, it’s nice. With a bit of luck, we will still make it to Cairns today, on Monday December 18, because as nice as this lounge is we don’t want to stay here tonight.

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December 18, evening – Cairns, Australia

Well, we made it. But not without further trials and tribulations: We got onto the plain and were seated at the very back, only to discover, as we were gearing up for take-off, that there was a mechanical issue with the plane (it would only take 20 minutes to fix.) 20 Minutes later, they came back on the intercom, “ladies and gentlemen, we’re sorry to inform you that the issue is not fixed and it may take up to an hour”. So we sat at the gate for an hour. “Ladies and Gentlemen, we’re sorry to inform you that you have to disembark the plane and we’ll put you on another plane which will take you to Cairns. To make up for this “inconvenience” you’ll be allowed a drink and a snack at one of the restaurants immediately outside of the gate.” So, we all gathered our things and shuffled off the plane to discover that there was only a vending machine and 1 small coffee/juice bar. We got in line at the juice bar. On reaching the counter we discovered that our “credit” only applied to the 4 sweet muffins and 1 Danish that were left and certain drinks. We got 2 waters, hoping that one of them would cool Marieke’s simmering frustration. It didn’t. David meanwhile was busy working on his submission for Veer, the stock agency. So, being preoccupied, he was less troubled by the long chain of events preventing us from arriving at our destination.

When we finally got to Cairns, we met the first of many Dutch people, a clerk for one of the bus companies, operating at the airport. He was so friendly and offering us advice that we kept waiting for the sales pitch to drop, but like being in Maui, it made us feel like we were slightly jaded coming from Los Angeles, because the man was just very friendly and wasn’t trying to sell us anything. We’ve since encountered a string of Dutch people: from a young couple staying across the hall here at JJ’s backpackers to the night manager here at the hostel, who for some reason denied his Dutch heritage, despite it being quite obviously.

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December 20, Later afternoon – Cairns, Australia

We’ve had 2 days of diving in the Great Barrier Reef, which once you get past the expectation that it’s going to be sooo amazing, is actually amazing. It reminds David of Shakespeare: everyone tells you how fantastic it is and when you first encounter it, you think “What, this is it?” However, the more time you spend with it, you come to realize how very special it is. Thankfully though, unlike a Shakespearean tragedy, no one died in the end. And now, here we sit, safely on the floor of our room at JJ’s backpackers, typing away this story and sipping a cold Coke.

Marieke was thrilled on her fist day on the boat, to not get seasick at all. (Despite very choppy water with swells up to 5 ft.) She was ready to buy stock in the motion sickness patch company until today…when despite of being on a larger catamaran, which cut through the water much more smoothly, she began to feel “uncomfortable…”.

Marieke LOVED the diving and couldn’t wait to go down again today. She’s slightly sad to not be diving again here at the Great Barrier Reef, but happy and relieved for not having to get onto a boat for a while.

The diving experience: on day one (yesterday) we were a little disappointed with the amount of sediment in the water which reduced the visibility a little and the lack of vibrant colors – it was far from the techni-color photos of the Great Barrier Reef in crystal clear waters that one always sees. However, the water was warm (certainly compared to California) and we both really enjoyed the diving for slightly different reasons: Marieke loved the sensation of going down to 18 meters and got a kick out of being able to dive with confidence and skill. David loved the other worldliness of the reef with a vast array of beautiful sea life. We both saw cuttle fish yesterday, which looked like some pre-historic cousin of the trilobite. It changed colors as it swam over coral to blend with its surroundings, much like an octopus does – fascinating. Today the fish were much more colorful (due to a sunny day) and there was a much larger variety. We saw a beautiful sea turtle and a wide variety of brightly colored fish, which took our breath away. For both of us, the dives ended too soon and we both wanted to go back and dive again as soon as we could.

We had 2 dives yesterday and 2 today. Yesterday’s boat ride was about 2.5 hours and made the journey feel incredibly long. Whereas today was an hour and fifteen minutes and it felt less of arduous journey. David rented a camera - a digital point and shoot with a housing. He was frustrated with the delay the camera had from the time you pushed the button until the moment that it decided to shoot, but he still managed to squeeze out a few decent photos – not bad for his first time out as an underwater photographer.

We just had a shower to rinse off the saltiness and shortly will go back into the Cairns city center to look around and meet some of the dive crew from yesterday for a bite and a drink at the Woolshed where last night we got 2 big ole’ slabs of meat for about US $5 each (they offer a deal through hostels, luring young backpackers in for a cheap and hardy meal with fairly expensive alcohol to make up for the cheap dinner. 1 Beer & 1 Coke cost us AU$10.)
For tomorrow we booked an eco-tour to the Daintree rainforest and to Cape Tribulation. We’ll be picked up at 7:10 in the morning and will spend our day learning about the Australian rainforest, its wildlife and fauna.

It’s strange to think that today is December 20 and that Christmas is a mere 5 days away, because despite some tinselly decorations here at JJ’s, the tropical setting seems anything but Christmassy and given that our next stop will the sweltering heat of Ayers Rock we’ll expect things to become even less Christmassy as the day approaches. So, given the lack of Christmas cheer, we’re going to raise a glass in town and say “Cheers” hoping it will put us more into the Christmas “spirit(s)”.

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December 21, early evening – Cairns, Australia

Today we’re a little tired, not so much from physical activity, but because our brains are full. Full of all the information we learned from the Billy Tea Eco Rainforest Excursion. They collected us at 7:10 am in a big Mitsubishi 4-Wheel drive Truck. Our driver, Chris, was cool and incredibly knowledgeable. As we drove up the coast to the Dainties River, Point Tribulation and beyond, he gave us information about flora & fauna, history, agriculture and Australian idiom. For example: we stopped to use the ‘Dunnies’ (toilets), later followed by a ‘Smoko stop’ (tea / coffee break) before boarding the 1-hour cruise on the Daintree River.

We were very fortunate to spot 2 crocodiles, especially at this time of year, the rainy season, when they’re not as visible due to their nesting behavior. Marieke was the one who spotted the 2nd crock and about 10 minutes after spotting him for the first time, he decided to swim up the river, following our boat for a spell. A second tour boat came along and he decided to duck under water and disappeared in the murky, muddy waters of the Daintree River. We also saw fruit bats, hanging in the top of the trees lining the river; just too many to even start counting. We also spotted a little snake, dangling off a branch over the water. Neville was another informative guide who also was the skipper on the boat.

We got back into the ‘Tai Pen’, the nickname of Chris’ truck, and continued our journey, ascending the Alexandra Range and went to the World Heritage Tropical Rainforest and walked along the elevated natural park boardwalk. Here we learned about the ancient rainforest, its different plant life, we saw some of the oldest ferns on the planet; one tree Chris estimated was over 900 years old.

After the walk we got back into the Tai Pen and drove over to the local animal rescue place where we both had a fantastic lunch and fed the kangaroos & wallaby that had been rescued and are being taken care off in a safe environment. The lunch was absolutely fantastic: big slabs of steak, sausages, potato salad, green salad, pasta salad, avocados, and cucumber & tomato salad – yummy!!

After lunch and feeding the kangaroos, we got back in the Tai Pen (the people, not the kangaroos) and went further into Cape Tribulation, along ‘Bloomfield Track’ – a dirt road where the Tai Pen kicked in its 4-wheel drive. We arrived Emmagen Creek, where David decided to join some others and have a swim in crock-free waters, while Chris and his colleague John prepared an exotic fruit table and smoko, including wine.

Then, the skies opened and the rainforest lived up to its name. Luckily, part of our smoko included a traditional “Billie Tea” to warm us. Billie Tea is prepared in a big tin bucket, on an open fire. The tea tasted great and warmed us up under our soaked clothing. We hopped back in the Tai Pen to begin heading back. We stopped at Cape Tribulation Beach and then drove home with a couple of photo stop opportunities along the way, like the Rex Lookout.

We got back into town, where it was raining. We’re still from lunch and not sure if we even want to go out for food tonight. Tomorrow, we leave Cairns. At 10:20 am, the taxi will pick us up to drop us at the airport, from where we will leave to Alice Springs, the closest city to Ayers Rock (Uluru – as the indigenous people call it).

We’re sorry having to leave Cairns already, as there is still so much we’d like to do here. However, the rest of our journey calls and we look forward to moving on and hopefully return here at some point in the future.

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December 22, 7:45 pm – Alice Springs, Australia

The airstrip at Alice Springs is one of the smaller ones where you walk down a flight of steps onto the tarmac. As we walked out of the plane, we hit a veritable wall of heat. It was as if someone slapped you in the forehead with something hot. We made our way under some coolooroo shade sails, commenting on how these would be cool for our house. When we got to baggage claim, we found Cat the girl who was our ride to “Annie’s Place”, the nice hostel from which we’re writing this entry.

Today we moved away from the Great Barrier Reef into the center of Australia: The Outback. Flying over the land might be something like flying over Mars, save for the one odd straight road, cutting through the landscape as the earth is rusty red dry and barren-looking. However, as we descended into Alice Springs, we were surprised to see a fair amount of green that are scrubby “trees”. Later, when we took a walk, one of these scrubby trees down the street gave proof to the adage that when you get still the dessert is actually teaming with life: we noticed a leaf fall from the tree and stopped for a moment to become aware of a bird collecting food from the berries of the tree. As we stood there we soon noticed not one, but two. Then three, four, five… Soon we realized that the tree was full with these beautiful parrots / parakeets feasting on the bounty of the tree which to us looked like a scrubby bush. So impressed were we with this that we had to go have a drink. So, we set off for the bar.

This afternoon before the walk, David had a swim in the pool and before his swim was done, the gathering clouds opened and let loose a very heavy shower. So heavy that Marieke wouldn’t go out swimming, ‘cause she didn’t want to get wet from the rain. (Isn’t it ironic, don’t you think?) So instead she took a shower…during which she “did a load of laundry” which is now hanging out to dry, spread out throughout the room & ensuite bathroom.

Later, back at the bar, David sampled the Special: Camel Lasagna (yes, it was Italian Dromedary) while Marieke enjoyed a Thai Chicken Pizza. We had mud pie with vanilla ice cream for dessert, tasty, but too small a portion compared to the generosity of the main course. It seems from our limited experience (only two hostels) that the strategy for places that cater to backpackers is to offer good and cheap food while making up for it with rather expensive drinks. The two drinks that we had with dinner were almost as expensive as the two large plates of food.

So now, we’re off to sleep off our drinks before we wake up at 5:30 tomorrow morning (yes, David is actually getting up at that time) to make our way over to Ayers Rock, or Uluru as they call it here.

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December 24, 9:30 am – Connellan Airport, Ayers Rock

As it turns out, 5:30 am was nothing, since we’ve been up since 4:00 am this morning. But more about that later…

The coach ride from Alice Springs to Ayers Rock was all in all quite lovely. There is a beauty in the muted colors of the desert: dusty greens to yellows, accentuated by the occasional saturated green, offset by the deep rust red soil and powder blue sky. The sheer expanse of sky and desert populated with very little except desert life, the odd cow (we past through 8 different cattle stations) and the occasional wedged-tail eagle in search of something to eat. The only setback was a “flood way” which was indeed flooded from the previous nights rains (6.1 cm in 30 minutes). John, our coach driver immediately concluded that the water was more than 30 cm. deep and since he was not allowed to drive his Mercedes bus through water higher than 30 cm. (it would apparently short out the electrics) our journey ground to a halt. We sat parked on the side of the road for some 40 minutes while John, whose decision-making powers were paralyzed until he could reach home base on his not-working radio. Meanwhile, a dozen cars and 3 buses passed through the water, but John being new, was fearful to brave the depths of the flooded Highway. Even the police, who were there to control he crossing, rolled their eyes at John’s caution, “a real worry wart”, said one. Finally, using the police’s CB John was able to reach home base, who advised him to cross. And once again, we were on our way.

We arrived at the Outback Pioneer – part of a resort built in the 80’s, which was very nice. After check-in we had a few hours and thought maybe we should go out to Uluru, but the bus trip and park fees were going to cost $130 AU and since we were going to the Sounds of Silence dinner overlooking the rock, we thought we’d safe that money and wait. So, we threw on our “swimmers” and went out to the pool to relax (good lord, what a concept, this is a vacation, isn’t it?). Out of the pool it seemed that some of the rain we had in Cairns and Alice Springs had followed us. This time however, Marieke braved the wetness and got in the pool anyway.

We went and got dressed for dinner, only to discover that the highlight of our stay at Ayers Rock had been canceled, due to impending rain. This was exacerbated by the fact that we had chosen not to go out to the Rock in the afternoon and since we were leaving the following morning it looked like we wouldn’t get to see Uluru closer than from a few miles away.

And now it was sunset and there wasn’t any time to go out. So, we let it go as much as we could, hurried back to the room to change into dressier clothes and headed for the resort’s 5-star hotel restaurant to treat ourselves to a nice meal, since the one that we had planned on having had been canceled.

We had a lovely conversation with a lady called Gail who ran the gallery for a really good landscape photographer. She was super sweet, tried to help us find a way to the Rock and after much toing & froing we ended up booking passes on the Uluru Express Shuttle to go out to the Rock at 4:45 am to watch the sunrise. The reservation we’d made for dinner turned out to be for the wrong restaurant, but luckily they were able to transfer us to the fine dining called K- - - (something in Ananguku).

Dinner was on the whole quite excellent: Marieke’s drink (an “Out of the Blue) was an exquisite blend of sweet and tangy with a tropical flair. We received complimentary tuna tartar with a balsamic reduction that melted in the mouth. The bread was a culinary experience: rosemary bread that you broke in pieces, then dipped in a balsamic & olive oil dip and then in a mixture of roasted nuts, spices and coarse sea salt. Hmmmm, yumyum… Marieke immediately asked for the recipe and indeed got it. Marieke’s veal was a little raw along one edge, but David’s lamb was wonderful and melted in your mouth. The vegetables were excellent as was the recommended wine to go with dinner. David had a fantastic cappuccino, but dessert fell a little short of our now elevated expectations. However, exactly how nice our dinner was, wasn’t brought home until we ran into a German couple that had been out at the Rock in the pouring rain, for sunset, while we enjoyed our culinary treat.

We got up at 4:00 am today, packed and checked out, left our bags with the porter and got on the bus to Uluru to watch the sunrise. The sun dutifully obliged and rose as scheduled at 5:55 am. However, the clouds didn’t want us to know about it, so they blanketed the sun and its rays that we had hoped would shed a beautiful color onto Ayers Rock. Given that we dropped AU $130 to see this spectacle, we felt a little gypped, but there was no complaints window in the Outback to register our grievance. So we took the remaining hour and walked around the base of Uluru, which turned out to be a lovely experience: if you stop, get quiet and listen, a tranquility descends on you, which is really quite special. Perhaps it is the energy of this site, which has been sacred to the Aborigines for eons, or maybe it’s just the “tuning in” to nature – whatever it is, it was really lovely and shifted our experience of the morning.

Alas it was time to catch our shuttle back to the hotel where we found someone to give the AU $50 National Park 3-day passes to, which we had used for about 3 hours – sort of Christmas gift for them. We got on the shuttle to the airport, to catch a plane back to Alice Springs from where we’ll continue our journey today to Sydney to spend Christmas in the South.

We’re pretty tired, feeling the affect of being up since 4:00 am, combined with the cocktail and wine we had with dinner last night. We’ll be staying at the Grace Hotel in Sydney, our luxury accommodation during this trip.

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December 24, 7:45 pm – Sydney, Australia

Arriving in Sydney, it’s still raining – it seems to be following us. The Grace Hotel is lovely. Kudos to James, our AAA travel agent who arranged this hotel for us. We checked in and met Belinda at the front desk, who on hearing that it was our “honeymoon” (we left out the ‘2nd’ part) arranged for a bottle of nice bubbly and chocolate dipped strawberries, which we were surprised with on entering our room. Ray, the concierge helped us sort out Christmas dinner and brought our bag up.

We’re both a little tipsy, having drunk a bottle of champagne. The room is great, with lights built into the headboard of our king-size bed.


Later…


We went to the Italian Village on the Circular Quay, overlooking the Sydney Harbor, Sydney Bridge and Opera House. Tom and Noreen had given us a gift certificate for dinner to this restaurant which they had researched online. “The Rocks” is a very beautiful old part of town. The rain continued to chase us and was lightly falling as we arrived, but it didn’t stop us from getting the pictures we wanted. Dinner was lovely, we’ve taken to ordering different things and seeing whose dish is better for every meal. So, David won the starter dish with his warm kalamata olives & provolone cheese in a garlic & chili infused olive oil. The main course was won by Marieke who had ordered barramundi filet, a type of fish that is very prevalent in Australia. As a matter of fact, we happened to see a great school of them diving at the Great Barrier Reef – Cool. David had grilled tuna filet, which was a close second. Dessert (Tiramisu) was shared by us both. We both agreed that it was the most beautiful presentation of tiramisu we’d ever seen. As a matter of fact, the presentation of all the dishes was fantastic. Dinner ended in a tie.

Then we walked to the St. Mary Cathedral, to attend midnight mass. It was absolutely packed. You’d think they were giving away pardons, neither one of us had ever seen a church this packed. We thought we’d arrived early, but definitely not early enough, so we ended up sitting on the floor (we were the lucky ones, who actually had a space on the cold church floor to sit on…- many had to stand for the entire service.) being so full, it was a little stuffy and warm, or perhaps it was the bottle of champagne and the wine from dinner…? We left a little early and enjoyed the stroll back to our hotel.

Christmas day. We luxuriously slept in and had some coffee in the café downstairs. We decided to spend the day exploring Sydney and walked over to the Harbor. A lovely lady named Gail at Ayers Rock had suggested we take a ferry out to Manly Beach, so we purchased a day pass for the ferries and headed out there. As we were leaving the harbor, the clouds (which had threatened) dissolved and it became a wonderful sunny day (much to David’s later dismay…)

Manly Beach was beautiful; we laid out for a bit while eating our lunch that consisted of food from a local bakery. We picked up some Italian gelato before getting back on the ferry and returned back to the city. We continued walking around and wandered back to the hotel. Along the way we met a Sydney bus driver who had just won the Christmas Day bus decoration with the bus he was driving.

At the hotel, we changed into our going-out-for-dinner clothes and we headed back out to the harbor. We took the last ferry out to Mossman - a trip that was beautiful with the setting sun. We got to talking to the Ferry-man (Duncan) who out of nowhere asked us to follow him to the wheelhouse of the boat. 2 levels up he introduced us to the captain (Gary) and the ship’s engineer (Leo), so here we were, suddenly out of the wind, up on the bridge with an amazing view talking to these really interesting guys who decided that Marieke needed to drive the boat. So they parked her in the captain’s chair and she literally drove the boat into the harbor (with a little instruction of course). Our captain Gary took over “parking” the ferry much to Marieke’s relief and wished us a very merry Christmas, as it was the end of their shift. We thought that was so cool.

We then took a taxi over to Nick’s seafood restaurant, which was a little disappointing, because the ambiance wasn’t as intimate and romantic as we would have liked. On the contrary, it was pretty bustling and noisy. Marieke’s starter won – a smoked salmon salad with roasted peppers and pine nuts. David’s entrée won – John Dory fillet. This was mostly because of a misunderstanding when snapper fillet fried as she thought it would be pan-fried, not deep-fried. (Who eats snapper deep-fried??)

We decided to flee the noisy atmosphere and order dessert as room service at the hotel. We ordered an apple tart tatin with a passion fruit coullis – to die for and watched a comedy on TV.

Overall, Sydney was awesome!! We loved the city, its people and the overall atmosphere.

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